Masks and Respect

When you wear a mask, it says “I respect others, and I respect you.” -- NY Governor Andrew Cuomo

When COVID-19 erupted in New York City, I was a beginner sewist. During the winter, I took a few sewing classes, invested in a sewing machine, thread, and all the necessary tools. My new hobby required a rearrangement of furniture and a new desk. It was an investment in time, physical space and materials. My go-to practice item was pillow covers, and I made about 20 of them by early March. On March 20th, New Yorkers were issued a stay-at-home order requiring all except essential workers to “pause.” Like others around the world affected by the pandemic, our homes became our workplace, school, exercise studio, online shopping zone, as well as our place to cook, eat, and sleep.

I stepped up my sewing. It was my therapy, forcing me to create and problem-solve. Within about a week, wearing masks became mandatory. In my apartment building, we could not leave our apartments without a mask. Initially I resisted sewing masks. The idea of it was depressing, but with time it seemed like an unwanted necessity, and an opportunity to learn something new. After watching a few instructional videos I was on my way.

The beautiful fabric I had reserved for home goods was now being cut into 7 X 9 inch squares. I researched the layers of fabric required for maximum protection. Elastic was hard to come by, so I created bias tape and also experimented with elastic used for babies head bands. I created tie-back masks and evolved to masks that button in the back as well as an over-the-head design. In a one-week period, I made about 25 masks that I donated for food deliveries to new immigrants and asylum seekers. My fingers became calloused from that experience!

I’d like to share my reflections as a sewist and mask maker and offer recommendations for the wearer/buyer:

Home-sewn cotton masks are proven effective

My masks have gotten quite good! I’ve applied my color aesthetic to each one, and the initial elastic shortage forced me to be more creative about materials. My strong commitment to sustainability motivates me to continue making breathable, washable masks. I’ve remained consistent in using 2 to 3 layers of 100% quilting cotton, with research now showing that home-made fabric stitched masks are the most effective way of limiting the spread of droplets to within 2.5 inches.

Color and comfort

My small business is built around the idea and increasing evidence on the effect of color on mood, behavior, and productivity. Color in the home can inspire peace and restfulness, or energy and action. The COVID pandemic is stressful enough, and seeing people in white masks normally reserved for hospital and nursing home staff is depressing to me. A colorful mask is more personal and uplifting for the user as well as the passer-by. A quilt cotton mask is breathable enough to be comfortable and can be washed easily for continued use. And cotton is gentler on the skin.

Price point and fair wage

Disposable masks are incredibly cheap, and polyester and synthetic masks can be purchased online, sometimes for under $10. Some department store/brand name masks are priced as high as $30 or more. I believe $15 per mask, or even a bit more, is a fair price for a product that is hand-made, beautiful, and made of high-quality cotton. $15 is a base minimum wage for one hour’s work, a hard fought battle for U.S. workers. Consider each step involved in making a mask: choose and order the fabric; wash the fabric; iron, cut, and pin the fabric; prep the machine for threading, sew in elastic, sew the folds. Each cloth mask you wear is taking someone (or a few people) at least an hour of labor. These steps exclude the cost of materials and utilities. There is barely a profit for the worker at that price.

I firmly believe that a cloth sewn masks sold for under $15 is oppressing someone somewhere. The sewist, usually a woman, who is making that mask is not being paid a fair wage for her craft. Around the world, similar to teachers, sewists primarily in the clothing industry are not paid fairly.

Sustainability

Cotton is biodegradable. In all the home goods I sew, I’m committed to using biodegradable materials. So it came naturally to me to stick to 100% cotton fabric. It was out of urgency and stress that the frenzy of online buying began for so many people. But this tendency is contributing to paper and plastic waste (packaging) and air pollution, especially last mile delivery. Online purchasing put an incredible strain on essential delivery workers like postal staff. So if you are able to buy a washable/reusable cotton mask locally, you should. If you are able to make your own mask, even better! Wash it gently (by hand with warm water and mild soap for optimum care), and re-use the elastic for home purposes when the mask has worn down. Buy locally to support the environment, local businesses, and independent sewists. Look for a local supplier, and if you can’t find one, support a small business (some great small businesses sell on Etsy, but if you're going out of your city/state, that's not local). Beware of the underpriced mask as per my previous points on quality, fairness and perpetuating oppression.

My mask making journey, and learning to sew more generally, has helped me empathize with hand crafters, especially the people around the world doing intensive work to bring us clothing, pillows, and all sorts of other hand made goods. When you create something with your own hands you realize the thought, creativity, skill, and time that goes into the final product.

NY Governor Andrew Cuomo frames the use of masks as a sign of respect toward each other. I extend that sentiment to how you purchase a mask. Your purchase can be made with intention and a respect for the labor involved, with locally-made in mind, and with an awareness of how your purchase will affect the environment. Finally, a well-made, comfortable, colorfully expressive mask can be uplifting and bring joy to all those who stand 6 feet away!

Thanks for reading and please wear a mask.

Vanessa